This is a guide to colour theory for hairdressing, including where natural hair gets its colour, and what depth and tone are. We also look at how colour theory is used to correct tones and the various factors that can cause hair to change colour. Understanding colour is an essential part of hairdressing – and this post covers all the basics you need to know. Show
Contents Natural Hair ColourColour theory for hairdressing starts by understanding how natural hair gets its colour. Natural hair colour depends on melanin pigments contained within the cortex of the hair. There are two melanin pigments in human hair – eumelanin and pheomelanin. These pigments blend in varying amounts and proportions to form all the hair colours we see.
Black and brown hair contains a lot of eumelanin. Red hair has large quantities of pheomelanin. Light blonde hair contains relatively little melanin – the pale yellow we see is due to the keratin in the hair rather than any pigment. White hair contains little or no pigment.
Why Natural Hair Changes ColourWe can change our hair colour by choice by using hair dyeing products. Here, the various chemical processes in hairdressing (like bleaching, tinting, neutralising) act on the natural pigments to change the hair’s colour.
However, hair colour can change for a variety of other reasons that are not always under our control, including:
Describing Hair ColourThe hair colour we see consists of depth and tone. Hair also has an undercoat, called undertone, which comes into play when we lighten or colour the hair. Depth or LevelDepth or level simply refers to how light or dark the base colour of the hair is. There are 10 main levels talked about in hairdressing:
ToneTone refers to the colours we see in the hair – be they natural colours or artificially added. Tonal colours are classed as warm, neutral or cool:
The tonal quality of a hair tint is sometimes given as part of the colour’s description. For example, intense red, honey blonde, rich copper, light beige blonde, and deep chocolate are all descriptions that give us a clue as to what the finished colour will be. There is also the ICC colouring system, with each tone given a specific number. UndertonesNatural hair has an underlying warm tone, dictated by the amount of pigment pheomelanin found in the hair. Consequently, the undertone can affect the final colour result when dyeing hair. Darker hair has more pheomelanin present as an undertone, which creates a red colour. Blondes have less, resulting in a more yellow undertone. The undertone becomes more evident when hydrogen peroxide is used to lighten the hair. The undertone also shows through when hair is lightened naturally from exposure to the elements. Pheomelanin is slowly oxidised during colouring and can produce those difficult-to-remove golden and orange tones in the hair. When dark hair is sufficiently bleached, it will go from having a red tinge to orange, then yellow and, finally, white as the pheomelanin breaks down. The underlying warm pigment that all natural hair colours have, from red for darker hair and yellow for lighter hair. ICC is the International Colour Chart system.Correcting Unwanted TonesCorrecting tones in hair needs an understanding of colour theory for hairdressing. It is also essential to know what products to use and application techniques. The colour wheel is an easy way to see what colours neutralise each other – simply look at the colour opposite.
To neutralise an unwanted tone, use the opposite colour on the colour wheel. For example, to remove a gold-brassy look from blonde hair, we use a purple shampoo or a mauve ash toner to knock out the unwanted yellow.
If the brassiness is more orange, then a blue-based product would be used. Similarly, if the hair has a green cast to it (sometimes caused by dyeing hair with an ash-based colour), a red-based product is used to neutralise the green.
The colours opposite each other on the colour wheel are also opposite in terms of “temperature”. That is, warm colours neutralise cool colours and vice versa. For example, red (warm) is the opposite of green (cool) – and they neutralise each other.
Completely neutralising the effect of a tone achieves a neutral shade that is neither warm nor cool. What Media Hairstylists Should KnowHair and makeup artists should understand colour theory for hairdressing. We often have to do things like temporarily cover up highlights for a period production. Additionally, working on stage or under media lights can affect how hair colour looks. When we look at hair during a production, the colour we see is influenced by several factors, including:
To summerise, understand how lighting affects colour, and how the materials used for costumes and sets can reflect onto hair and skin. Also, it is good to know how the different hair used in wigs or false hair can look on camera or stage. What is the most critical part of a hair color service?haircoloring. What could be done to solve the problem of insufficient coverage of grey hair?To achieve coverage there you will want to apply baking soda during the Prepare process, rubbing it into the resistant hair. You can also leave the Prepare on the hair for up to 20-30 minutes, which will help open the cuticle more, especially with very coarse/resistant hair (including facial hair).
What would provide an even base from which to work during a tint back procedure?Filler. A filler provides an even base for a tint back procedure. The porosity of the hair. Chemical products such as hair colors, lighteners, perms and relaxers affect the porosity of the hair.
What color design principle can draw attention away?a repetition of one color throughout, as well as strategic placement of darker colors, draws attention away from texture and focus on the form or silhouette. application of a darker color draws attention to overall form of a design.
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