Tite Bond III...how long after glue up before working?
I am making some cutting boards and am wondering how long I need to wait after gluing before I can joint, plane, etc?
Thanks
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I'm sure it's dry enough to trust the joint not failing in a couple of hours...
that being said, I prefer to wait at least 24 hours before trying to work glued up woods as the joint is still tending to move a bit, evidenced by sanding everything flush when glue it wet (and perhaps expecting the dust to mix with glue and fill any voids in a glue up) and finding joints not flush 24 hours later...even joints sanded 24 hours later can exhibit movement as glue takes a while to fully
cure (one luthier reports freshly joined top plates exhibit tap tone changes that stabilize 2 weeks after gluing).
in the case of TIII, it never hardens fully until subjected to ~200*F so it might be pointless to expect locked in joinery (guess you could toss them in the oven for a bit!!!)
Assuming no crazy conditions, I usually give it about 8 to 12 hours and notice no probs. I test my nail
on squeeze out. If it's pretty firm, I consider it ready.
If the joint is under stress like in a lamination, I give it the full 24 in clamps.
We are in Michaels routine. We are usually out of the clamps in 30-45 minutes for a standard glue up but as a general rule hold off on any hard machining for a day as Michael said. We have pushed this many times with no ill effects but if its possible its
better wait to be sure to avoid future failure and movement. As a side note, TBIII is one of the thinnest and, IMHO, about the worst glue out there with regards to strength and creep unless you absolutely need the water resistance. Have a lot of guys come in the shop, and read in forms, where thought seems to be if TBI is good than III has got to be better, but its not. TB Original or TB Super our our preferred glues and for water resistance we use TBIII or PU (we have just about switched to PU
everywhere that isnt seriously effected by the foam from PU). Creep in TBIII has caused us a lot of headaches which can be a reason to wait as long as you possibly can.
I wait at least three days and leave them in clamps for as long as possible.The reason is I'm adding a lot of water back into the wood.So I need to give it time to absorb it I feel I get less warp in the blanks when I cross cut.
This is my method for a end grain cutting board.
Aj
For a glue up for instance, I�ll light sand/plane after an hour or two. But on a flat panel there�s not really any stress on the joint. Otherwise, I wait overnight.
Originally Posted by Tim M Tuttle
I am making some cutting boards and am wondering how long I need to wait after gluing before I can joint, plane, etc?
For things to be
turned on the lathe I wait until at least overnight, 24 hours or longer if I can. I too am concerned with moisture swelling the wood next to the joint, not with the strength of the bond. I sure the clamps can be removed earlier as long as the wood is not worked too soon, but for me it's just as easy to leave the clamps on since I don't have a production line going. Waiting 24 hours until working the wood (in a conditioned shop) I've not yet had an issue.
I left this one clamped for two days.
Cherry and basswood. Ok, it was the first one of these and maybe I went a little overboard on the clamps.
My opinion, as a pro shop that�s been using TB III as the main adhesive for 7 years now...
Generally clamp for 1 hr to a few hours
depends upon item. Try and leave visible joints like tops etc until the next day to process, but that�s due to preventing the sunken glue line. Strength wise I�ve put slabs on the Cnc router after a few hours without issues. It seems to have a really strong initial bond.
Never had any problems with creep either.
I like the glue for various reasons, one being it sands without gumming up our wide belt and edge sander belts.
Originally Posted by Mark Bolton
Man thats a beauty John.
Thanks, Mark. That was my
first try at that glue-up technique (and the carved letters) but I've done several more since. I pre-hollow each layer before the glue-up to make it a lot easier to hollow the whole thing. BTW, for anyone wondering this is a Beads of Courage box, a program for seriously ill children.
JKJ
I un-clamp after a couple hours so I can scrape any squeeze out while it's still flexible, but don't
"work" things until the next day, if at all possible.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Originally Posted by John K Jordan
For things to be turned on the lathe I wait until at least overnight, 24 hours or longer if I can. I too am concerned with moisture swelling the wood next to the joint, not with the strength of the bond. I sure the clamps can be removed earlier as long as the
wood is not worked too soon, but for me it's just as easy to leave the clamps on since I don't have a production line going. Waiting 24 hours until working the wood (in a conditioned shop) I've not yet had an issue.
I left this one clamped for two days. Cherry and basswood. Ok, it was the first one of these and maybe I went a little overboard on the clamps.
John, off
topic, but is that finish something you apply while turning? Very nice.
Originally Posted by Nick Decker
John, off topic, but is that finish something you apply while turning? Very nice.
Thank you, Nick! Good clean fun (and hopefully good for some child.)
The finish is a coat of shellac-based sanding sealer on the basswood and then "danish" oil on
everything.
I used a couple of coats of thinned sander sealer on the basswood before carving the letters since it keeps the wood clean when sketching and carving and helps with detail in the corners. It was a bit tricky since I didn't want the oil on the bare basswood but I did want the effect of the oil on the bare cherry. I applied oil with a tiny brush to just the cherry with while rotating slowly on the lathe, wiping off any that got on the edge of the basswood. Then I put sanding
sealer on the basswood. (At least I think I did it in that order!) Then I reversed and cleaned up the bottom, removed from the lathe, penciled in and carved the letters, then wiped on a few coats of oil on the whole piece letting dry between coats as usual.
If interested, there is picture of a similar one I did for a particular child here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...e-box-for-Jack I've done several more since then but not yet another with carving.
JKJ
Thanks, John. Maybe I'll make another run at Danish Oil, my attempts have not ended up looking anything like yours.
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How long does it take for cutting board glue to dry?
Cleaning Up The Cutting Board
PRO TIP: After waiting 30 to 45 minutes, the glue will be skinned up and rubbery which is the perfect time to scrape it off. It should come off neatly and with a single pass.
How long does wood glue have to sit?
Drying time depends on the type of wood, the temperature, humidity, and wood glue, but usually takes 10 to 30 minutes. However, never confuse drying time with curing time. Drying time is faster but curing often takes up to 24 hours.
How long after gluing wood can you cut?
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours.
Is 12 hours enough for wood glue?
In most cases, you can be sure wood glue is dry after 24 hours.
