Presentation on theme: "Chapter #20 Chemical Texture."— Presentation transcript: 1 Chapter #20 Chemical Texture Show
2
Chemical Texture Services 3
The structure of hair Review 4 Importance of
pH in Texture Services
5 Basic Building Blocks of Hair 6 Side Bonds cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by 3 types of side bonds: __________________________________ __________________________________ Altering these 3 types of side bonds is what
__________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ 6 7 Side Bond - Salt relatively weak ________________________________ 8 Side Bond - Hydrogen __________________ 9 Side Bond - Disulfide __________________ 10 Permanent Waving Is a two step process 11 Perm Wrap Is essentially a wet set on perm rods instead of rollers 12 Perm rods __________________________________
__________________________________ __________________________________ Selecting correct perm rod and wrapping method is key to successful perm 13 Perm rods cont’d Concave – ________________________ 14 Perm Rods Cont’d Straight – 15 Perm Rods Cont’d Bender – uniform diameter
16 Perm Rods Cont’d Loop – uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod hair is wrapped and the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop
17 specialty rods give a 3 dimentional curl 10 18 End Papers aka End
Wraps
19 End Wraps Double Flat Wrap Single Flat Wrap Bookend Wrap
20 Base Sections subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm
wrapping ______________________________ ______________________________ 20 21 Base Placement Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section & ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ On-base – 45 degrees
beyond perpendicular to its base section, caution should be used with on-base placement because the additional stress & tension can mark or break the hair Half-off base – 90 degree angle or perpendicular to its base section, minimizes stress and tension of the hair Off –base – 45 degrees below the center of the base section
22 Base Direction Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head – horizontally, vertically, or
diagonally ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ 23 Base Direction
24 Wrapping Techniques __________________________________ __________________________________
__________________________________ 25 Chemistry of Perming Alkaline permanent wave solution soften and swells the hair, thus raising the cuticle, which permits the solution to penetrate into the cortex __________________________________ __________________________________
__________________________________ 26 Reduction reaction ______________________________
______________________________ Permanent waving is the +hydrogen Reduction breaks disulfide bonds ______________________________ 27 Reduction
All permanent waves contain a reducing agent commonly referred to as ________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ Strength of perm lotion is determined by ___________________ of thio b/c acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex manf. add an alkalizing agent __________________________________ __________________________________ 27
28 Types of Permanent Waves
29 Alkaline aka ________________________ developed in 1941
30 Acid Waves Glyceryl Monothioglycolate ____________
31 True Acid Waves Have 3 components: __________________________________ __________________________________ activator contains GMTG & must be added
immediately before use introduced in 1970’s pH __________________ _______________________________ process more slowly than alkaline waves do not produce as ________________ as alkaline 31
32 Acid-Balanced Waves modern acid waves are actually acid- balanced waves _________________________________ 32
33 have __________________
34 _______________________ _______________________
35 Ammonia-Free Wave uses an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, very little odor Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) or Monethanolamine (MEA) are
alkanolamines ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ 36 uses an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine 37 use of _______________________ work at a low pH 38 Caution _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________
_______________________ 39 Selecting the Right Type of Perm 40 Permanent Wave Processing
41 Processing Cont. ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ Properly processed perm should
break and rebuild _____ of hair’s ____________________________ If too many bonds are broken, the hair may not have enough strength left to hold the desired curl Over processed hair does not necessarily mean overly- curly Hair at scalp is usually stronger than ends, therefore over processed hair is____________________________________________
42 Processing cont. If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not produce curl
Under processed hair is __________________________________ ________________________________ 43 Neutralizing Neutralizers used in permanent waving are actually
________________________ Most common neutralizer is __________________________________ __________________________________ Neutralizing performs two important functions: ____________ any remaining wave solution in the hair _____________________________ broken by waving solution 44
Neutralizing Stage One 45 Neutralizer Stage Two While neutralizer is on hair, each oxygen atom joins with two
hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond and make a water molecule Water is then removed during final rinse Side bonds are also reformed into their new shape as different pairs 46 Safety Precautions Protect your client’s
clothing
47 Wrapping Patterns Basic wrap pattern – uses the basic _____ sections, all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod Curvature wrap – follows the shape of the head, curves within sectioned out panels, uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature area Bricklay – sections are
offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits 48 Wrapping Patterns Cont’d
49 Wrapping Patterns 50 Partial
Perms Allows you to give a perm when some of the hair is too short to roll on rods Can be used on the top and crown w/ very short hair tapered on the sides and nape Good for clients who only need volume and lift in certain areas _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________
51 Test Curls Help you determine for your client’s hair will react to a perm It is
advisable to take test curls if the hair is damaged Gently unwrap a rod and let the tension of the hair hang limp you should be able to see an _________ formation appearing 52 Basic Procedure Wash your hands Consultation
53 Perm Procedure Cont’d Check cotton and towels –if saturated replace with
new Process perm according to manf. Directions w/ or w/o heat Check curl – unwind rod and check “S” pattern formation, check a different rod each time you take a test curl Rinse Hair – thoroughly for a minimum of 5 minutes Towel blot hair gently Reapply cotton coil to hairline Apply neutralizer _________________________________ Process neutralizer according to manf. Instructions Rinse
thoroughly DO NOT SHAMPOO for 48 – 72 hours – you may wet and condition Complete cleanup and sanitation 54 Metallic Salts Metallic salts are in some haircoloring products and they leave a coating on the hair that can not be mixed with permanent wave solution Test: in a
glass bowl mix __________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________ if metallic salts are present hair will lighten rapidly, solution will get hot & smell 55 Chemical Hair Relaxers
56 Chemical Hair Relaxers 57 CAUTION Relaxers are characterized by an extremely high alkalinity and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly, most relaxers contain some of the same ingredients in depilatories & Drano
58 Thio Relaxers Same reducing agent as permanent waving
59 Thio Relaxer application steps for thio relaxer is same as hydroxide relaxer except the neutralization procedure once thio relaxer is
complete: 1-rinse w/ warm water 2- shampoo three times 3 - use a pre-neutralizing conditioner for five min 4 - rinse 5 - blot water from hair 6 - _________________________________________________________ 7 - rinse 8- shampoo 9 - condition 10 - style 59
60 Japanese Thermal Straightner 61 Hydroxide Relaxers ___________________ is the active ingredient 62 Relaxers cont’d Guanidine relax hair with ______________________________ ______________________________ They swell the hair ________
than hydroxide Are also ____________, ______________________________ Generally sold as “at-home kits” 63 CAUTION / DANGER Hydroxide relaxers are ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________
63 64 Hydroxide relaxers contd. 65 Low pH Relaxers Ammonium Sulfites & Bisulfites Compatible w/ Thio 66 Base and No-Base Relaxers
67 Relaxer Strengths Most are available in 3 strengths 68 Strand
Test Periodic testing during the processing will help to tell you when the hair has sufficiently relaxed __________________________________ __________________________________ 69 Hydroxide Neutralization 70 CAUTION Make sure that client has not had haircoloring containing metallic
salts, such as gradual or progressive haircolors – extreme damage or breakage can occur __________________________________ __________________________________ _________________ 71 Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures 72 Virgin Relaxer Used for hair that has
not had previous chemical texture services Application starts______________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ 73
Retouch Application Used for hair that has had previous chemical services Starts _______________________________________ _______________________________________ Apply to scalp during the last few minutes Rarely on occasion the shaft may need additional straightening and should be protected with a strengthening solution (conditioner) and then the relaxer may be applied for a few minutes at the end of the service
_______________________________________ _______________________________________ 74 Neutralizing At the end of the processing time the hair must be
___________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ 75 Procedure Virgin Relaxer 76 Procedure for Retouch Is the same as virgin but you __________________________________
77 Soft Curl Reformation _________________________________ 78 Analyze hair and have a through consultation prior to service
79 ______________________________ 80 Do not allow relaxer to overlap onto previously relaxed hair 81 Completely neutralize
Use a reconstructor conditioner 82 Keratin Straightening Treatment
83 Eliminates up to ____________________ 84 Keratin treatments are very controversial
b/c: Which type of perm should you recommend if a client has very damaged hair?So-called express perms use the same basic techniques as a traditional perm but leave the chemicals in your hair for much less time. An express perm will not last as long as a traditional perm, but for damaged hair this may be your best option.
What type of hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution?Coarse, resistant hair with a strong, compact cuticle layer requires a highly alkaline chemical solution. Porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution.
What determines the strength of a perm?The strength of permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio. Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perm.
What are the two most common types of chemical hair relaxers?Hydroxide and Thio are the most common types of hair relaxers. Hydroxide relaxer types include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide. These relaxers can be marketed as base and no base relaxers.
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