Do you need developer for ion Demi permanent color?

We know the hair color terminology you’ve heard at the salon often sounds like another language. So we’re here to translate. Up next: Breaking down semi-vs-demi-permanent hair color. The biggest difference between semi and demi is permanency. Though both are temporary, demi lasts 24 to 28 shampoos, and semi lasts 3 to 6. We’ll go through exactly what they are, and why you would use them, with tips from our colorists to help you get the best results. Read on to find out more of the differences between these two popular picks.

DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

What is it and how does it work?

Demi-permanent hair color is ammonia-free and mixed with a low-volume developer, so it washes out after about 24 to 28 shampoos. Applied to dry hair before you shampoo, it works by depositing pigment on the surface of the hair. It doesn’t actually penetrate your strands or lighten your color, but it does last much longer than the more-temporary hair color options out there.

Who is it for?

Demi-permanent is great for anyone who wants a temporary color change, or for folks who are looking to enhance their current shade with a new tone. Plus, it’s also great for people with less than 25% gray. Why only 25%? Because demi-permanent hair color only lives on the surface of your hair follicle, not allowing for any color to really get in there and cover up your grays. It will however, give your grays a translucent “highlighted” look, which might help them blend in a bit more with your overall shade.

True or false?

Demi-permanent hair color lessens the appearance of regrowth.

Answer: Partly True

Demi-permanent creates a “diffused” finish, meaning a softer transition between your current color and your growth. Aka, no blatantly obvious roots. However, while this is true for folks without grays, demi will not fully lessen the appearance of gray regrowth. For total coverage, you’ll need something a little stronger—like a permanent hair color. Or for a quick-fix, try our root touch-up spray.

SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

What is it and how does it work?

Semi-permanent is a deposit-only, temporary hair color that stains the hair for about 3 to 6 washes. Unlike demi, semi-permanent color does not need to be mixed with a developer, and is typically applied to freshly shampooed hair for the best result. In addition to coloring your hair, semi can even temporarily enhance the tone of your hair, adding a little extra oomph in between color applications. Fair warning: Semi tends to show up a bit darker on your hair than it does in the bottle. We recommend choosing one shade lighter to get the color you want. It may sound funny, but trust us on this.

Who is it for?

Semi-permanent hair color is for people who want an even more temporary hair color change than demi, since it fades almost 5X as fast. And with its super-quick fade, semi is a great choice for anyone who wants to experiment with a bright color for the weekend. Want your semi to wash out much faster? Use a clarifying shampoo or add a few drops of Tea Tree Oil to your shampoo for a quick DIY option.

True or false?

Kool-Aid is considered a semi-permanent hair color.

Answer: False

Kool-Aid is not a semi-permanent hair color simply because it's just too weak. The classic summer juice may be able to stain lighter hair red or blue, but "just add water" and the color will wash right out. True semi-permanent colors have stronger pigments that may last up to 6 washes. Sorry, giant-smiling-punchbowl man.

Now you have everything you need to decide whether demi- or semi-permanent hair color is right for you. To ask our colorists more hair care, color, and style questions click here, scroll down, and submit your questions at the blue bar. And while you’re at it, join the conversation on social via Instagram, Pinterest, Facebook, and Twitter.

Truth: The business of hair coloring is a science through and through. And for those of us untrained in the art, it's also a tad intimidating. Hence why we personally choose to leave it to the professionals. (If you have a talent for successfully coloring your own hair, we commend you, and please do tell us all your secrets).

However, just because we leave the painting and mixing to our favorite colorists doesn't mean we're not curious about the process. And lately, we've been confused about something: What is demi-permanent hair color and how is it different than semi-permanent hair color? We've been receiving some mixed signals on the matter, so we decided to get to the bottom of it. So, if you've ever wondered what demi-permanent hair color is, how long it lasts, and more, you're in luck. Keep reading for everything you need to know about demi-permanent hair color, as three expert colorists sound off on the topic and answer all our burning questions.

What is Demi-Permanent Hair Color?

First and foremost, it's important to differentiate demi-permanent hair color between crème and liquid formulas. According to Zoë Carpenter for Joico, a crème demi-permanent hair color is an alkaline, ammonia-free product that comes in a variety of shades and has the ability to either cover gray hair or blend hair color in a safe and natural manner. In other words, it's not nearly as harsh as permanent hair color since it doesn't actually lift your base. "This technology allows a wide range of hair color choices with lots of depth and dimension," Carpenter says. "It also allows for tone-enhancing contour and lowlights without any damage to the hair strand."

On the other side of the spectrum, demi-permanent liquid color is a bit different. "A liquid formula is great if you want to tone, blend, and add shine," says Carpenter. "It's also customizable so you can make it as sheer or as subtle as you'd like. It's the perfect antidote if you're a bit color shy or are new to color entirely."

How Long Does Demi-Permanent Hair Color Last?

"Unlike demi-permanent hair color, semi-permanent hair color is a deposit-only formula and won't require a developer or any level of peroxide," clarifies Dove hairstylist Cynthia Alvarez. "The color coats the outside of the hair and changes the tone rather than the color. This type of color usually lasts between five to 12 washes. Semi-permanent color is also commonly referred to as a stain, gloss, or a toner."

The Benefits of Demi-Permanent Hair Color

In addition to being an excellent option for women with textured hair (it won't alter or damage your curl pattern), Alvarez explains a few other key benefits of demi-permanent hair color as well: "Demi-permanent hair color results in a more obvious change for someone who wants to avoid damage or anything that's going to look like an ultra-dramatic change." As mentioned, this kind of formula doesn't contain any ammonia, but it does have just enough peroxide to open up the hair cuticle so that a suitable amount of color will be absorbed.

Does Demi-Permanent Hair Color Work For All Hair Types?

Yes! Since the color does not change the hair significantly, demi-permanent hair color is safe for all hair types. Good to know. However, if you're looking to lighten your hair, demi-permanent probably isn't the way to go. "It does a better job of darkening hair than semi-permanent does, but it doesn't lighten hair," Alvarez confirms.

Demi vs. Semi-Permanent Color: What's the Difference?

"A semi color sits on the surface of the hair strand, making the color short-lived," says celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter. Demi color enters the first layer of the hair strand allowing the color to blend gray slightly, but maximum gray coverage is found with permanent hair color. Demi-permanent hair color will fade and typically last 12 to 24 shampoos.

How to Remove Demi-Permanent Hair Color

In addition to opting for an in-salon solution like a Malibu Treatment (a recommendation from Nine Zero One colorist Nicole Zeal), Alvarez also suggests regularly using a clarifying shampoo as a safe way to remove unwanted demi-permanent hair color. "You can accelerate the fading process of a semi-permanent color by using a clarifying shampoo a few times a day. These shampoos are meant to strip your hair of all products and will quickly fade your color.

If you don't have a clarifying shampoo at home, you can use an anti-dandruff shampoo like Dove's DermaCare Scalp Invigorating Mint Shampoo ($5) to achieve similar results.

One word of caution: These types of shampoos can be excessively drying to your strands (it's stripping away moisture in addition to the hair color), so just be sure to follow suit with an ultra-moisturizing conditioner or mask. (We've been having a long moment with Verb's Hydrating Mask, $18).

The Best At-Home Demi-Permanent Color Kits

"If you want to dye your hair at home, you're going to have a lot more leeway with a demi-permanent color," explains Alvarez. "Since the color won't be so dramatic, you won't have to worry about applying the dye perfectly. If you've never dyed your own hair before and are worried that you'll mess things up, you should definitely start with a demi-permanent color. You can always switch to a permanent dye later on if you liked the results."

Keep scrolling for a few of our experts' top product picks.

Joico Lumishine Demi-Permanent Color $10.00

One of Carpenter's favorites, she says this pick from Joico boasts Argiplex—a key bond-building ingredient that restrengthens hair while simultaneously boosting it with maximum shine.

Pulp Riot Demi-Permanent Liquid Colors $12.00

This product has a smoothing complex featuring quinoa, vitamin E, grapeseed oil, rosemary, avocado oil, and sunflower oil to keep hair healthy and hydrated. It also happens to be Tippi's favorite liquid color.

Wella Color Touch Pure Naturals Hair Color $14.00

This vibrant demi-permanent hair color by Wella offers ultimate shine, tone, and color sans commitment and damage. It's one of Zeal's preferred choices for gorgeous pigment.

Redken Shades EQ Equalizing Color Gloss $12.00

Extremely hydrating (due to a helping hand of strengthening wheat amino acids), this pick from Alvarez delivers unparalleled shine (thanks to shimmer-inducing silicone) and a non-harsh, hair-safe formula.

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Article Sources

Byrdie takes every opportunity to use high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we keep our content accurate, reliable and trustworthy.

1. Gavazzoni Dias MFR. Hair cosmetics: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7(1):2-15.

2. Wang S, Meng D, Wang S, Zhang Z, Yang R, Zhao W. Modification of wheat gluten for improvement of binding capacity with keratin in hair. R Soc Open Sci. 2018;5(2):171216.

   What developer do I use with Ion Demi permanent hair color?

   Application: Using a non-metallic bowl or tint bottle, mix 2 oz ion(r) Color Brilliance with either 2 oz or 4 oz ion Sensitive Scalp(r) Developer 10 volume.

   Can I use ion permanent hair color without developer?

   You actually need a developer for all haircolors. That is what breaks down the hair so that it can change colors. Other wise if you don't have to developer you are just putting the color on top of the hair which will rinse out during your next shampoo.

   How do I prepare my hair for Demi permanent color?

   You generally shouldn't shampoo immediately before coloring, because this will remove the natural oils that help protect your scalp during the coloring process. It's best to shampoo 12 - 24 hours before coloring when using semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color. Shampoo 24 hours before using permanent color.

   How much developer do you mix with Demi color?

   Clairol Professional crème demi permanente hair color is ammonia-free and mixes with a low-volume developer (1:1 ratio) to gently penetrate the cortex for deposit that lasts up to 6 weeks.