What is the common ingredient in a Thio type relaxer and permanent waving solution?

Once the hair has been wrapped on perm tools, the chemical phase begins. The chemical process transforms the hair into lasting perm texture. Two chemicals are use during the chemical phase: The perm solution, which is a reducing agent and the neutralizer, which is an oxidizing agent. Perm solution is also known as waving lotion or reforming lotion. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s directions to ensure the best possible results when using perm solutions and neutralizers.

The procedures that you follow during the chemical phase may vary with perm products developed for individual hair types, such as fine, normal or color-treated hair. The basic steps of the chemical phase include:

Processing
 - Applying perm solution
 - Tinting and Testing
 - Rinsing
-  Blotting

Neutralizing
 - Applying neutralizer
 - Rinsing
 - Removing perm tools

PROCESSING

To permanently change the hair from a straight to curly state, strong disulfide bonds found in the cortex of the protein chains are softened and split. The disulfide bond is a chemical bond formed between two sulfur (s) atoms found in the amino acid called cystine. The perm solution breaks the disulfide or S-S bonds. This softening process allows the disulfide bonds to shift to a new configuration.

In alkaline (cold) waves, the perm solution chemically breaks, or reduces, the strong disulfide bonds while the hair is wrapped on the perm tools. With acid (heat) waves, heat tension, and the perm solution break the disulfide bonds. With both types of perm solutions, the processing action softens the protein structure and allows the disulfide bonds to shift, assuming the shape of the tool.

An accurately performed perm pattern and smoothly wrapped hair will allow for proper saturation of the perm solution. Once the hair is wrapped, a barrier cream is applied around the client’s hairline and cotton is positioned on top of that. Cotton should be replaced when it becomes saturated. Leaving the cotton on the client’s skin could cause burns.

NEUTRALIZING

Neutralizing is the final chemical step in the perm process. It reforms the disulfide bonds while lowering the pH of the hair. The main ingredient found in most neutralizers is hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate or sodium bromate. The pH can range from 2.5 to 7, depending on the type on neutralizer. Neutralizing is also known as re-bonding or oxidation.

The neutralizer reduces the swelling caused by the alkalinity of the perm solution and re-bonds and restores the disulfide bonds. This change re-hardens, or fixes, the disulfide bonds into the new shifted position, which is determined by the size of the perm tool, making the texture change “permanent.”

It is interesting to know that oxygen from the air (air oxidation) can achieve the same results as the neutralizer. Air oxidation is impractical; however, because the hair must dry naturally on the perm tools, without heat, from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the length and texture of the hair.

RINSING

After the hair is neutralized, it needs to be rinsed with water again to remove all chemicals. Handle the hair carefully while rinsing because it is still swollen and can easily damage. There are two methods for rinsing the neutralizer. With the first method, and for a stronger curl result, leave the perm tools in position and thoroughly rinse the neutralizer. With the second method, remove the perm tools, work the neutralizer through to the ends and rinse. The chemical phase is now complete and the hair will retain the shape of the tool, resulting in a new texture configuration.

Alkaline perms should be wrapped without tension (minimal stretching or straining of the hair) because alkaline reforming lotion causes the hair to swell. This swelling creates the necessary tension on the hair. Wrapping the hair with too much tension prior to applying an alkaline perm solution could result in an uneven penetration of the lotion and lead to breakage. Instead, hair should be held just taut enough to control the hair, creating a smooth, even wrap from ends to scalp. Keep in mind that, because of the hair swell, it is easier to rinse and blot the hair when using an alkaline solution.

With alkaline perming, the hair starts to process as soon as the solution is applied. Because of its higher pH, it processes faster than an acid perm, increasing the risk for hair damage, which is why it is so important to watch the process carefully. Remember that alkaline perms are applied without heat.  

- Acid perms are in the pH range of 6.9 to 7.2. Acid perms in the market today are now capable of processing without heat. They start out with a higher pH and heat is an option for a firmer curl. Unlike alkaline perms, acid perms cause only minimal swelling, therefore, it is essential that the hair be wrapped with firm, even tension. Without uniform tension throughout the strand, the perm will not process correctly, which may produce an uneven curl pattern. Heat and wrapping with even tension boost the penetration of the glycerol monothioglycolate into the hair strands where it breaks the disulfide bonds. The heat needed for acid perms is often just the client’s body heat that is trapped by placing a plastic bag over the perm wrap. Additional heat is achieved by placing the client under a hooded dryer.

 -A real benefit of working with lower pH in an acid perm is that you avoid exposure to higher alkaline pH solutions and excessive hair swelling, which would need to be counteracted during neutralizing.  
 
- Acid perms are slower acting than alkaline perms and are recommended for damaged, highly porous and previously permed hair. Since the lower pH of an acid per requires longer processing time, there is less chance of damage from over processing; however, you still want to monitor the process carefully.

- It is essential to completely rinse the perm solution from the hair before neutralizing. Since acid perms cause little swelling, it takes more time (at least 5 minutes) and attention to remove the perm solution from the hair than with an alkaline perm. Insufficient rinsing before neutralizing can trap order in the hair.
 

ALKALINE PERMS
• Strong curl Pattern
• Faster processing time
• Better for resistant hair - More control due to slower processing time
  
• No need for heat

ACID PERMS
• Soft, natural curl pattern
• Gentler to the hair
• More control due to slower processing
• Better for fragile or tinted hair.
  

The low/no thio perm, introduced in 1992, have a different reducing agent known as cystemine hydrochloride (hi-dro-CLOR-id). There are many benefits to using this type of perm, such as deeper penetration of the solution for longer-lasting and more consistent curls, less dilation of the cuticle layer, and the ability to reform up to 60% more bond during neutralization. The low/no thio option makes perming available to people who may have an allergic reaction to thiogylcolic acid, which is found in both alkaline and acid perms.

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