Why are my crickets dying so fast?

Once a week, I get 120 large crickets from my local reptile store. When I get them, they are lively, and active. They seem very healthy. Within a couple of days they start to often bloat and die, Most of the ones left after that, lose their jumping legs and slow down. It becomes a race to feed them to my dragon before they die off. Every once in a while, a bloated, dead cricket will fall out of the tube and Rin will eat it before I can grab it out of his feeding tub. I really hate that..not to mention it is probably really bad for him. They're kept in a large cricket bin, with 4 black tubes in it. I feed them a gut load (not sure of the name, but it's a green cube recommended by the reptile shop, and kept in my refrigerator when it's not being fed to my crickets). I also feed them chopped apples and red lettuce, sometimes chopped potato. They munch out on the food, and seem to really like it. I don't give them water. The one time I tried sprinkling just a tiny bit of water over their food, they died off really quickly, and I was told they will drown in the smallest amount of liquid. Is that true? Should I be giving them water, even if it's just sprayed onto the food? How do people make their crickets last more than a week (other than breeding them in captivity). No matter what, I am going to the reptile shop once a week, and I don't understand how people seem to keep their crickets alive and vital beyond a week without losing their jumping legs or dying.

Any tips and pointers as to what to do and what to feed them would be appreciated. I don't think they have any insect viruses because they die off slowly, not in one big massive death. Is it possible that because I am getting large crickets that their lifespan by the time I get them is just at the end of the cycle? Should I be getting medium crickets instead, so they last longer?

Why are my crickets dying so fast?

I have a few thoughts. One could be diet, the other could be temperature. Crickets like to be kept warm. If it goes below 70 or so a heating pad might help keep them happier. I kept mine in the basement and they'd die quickly in the winter (low 60s). When I put a heating pad and rock in the tank they'd congregate around them and were much happier. The other thought is diet. I'm not sure what the green food is but I found that the orange flukers gutload was great short term but prevented them from shedding to grow long term. I wound up switching to a staple diet of grain feed and water crystals. You do need to give them water but they drown in open water so keeping a wet sponge in with them or using water crystals (without nasty chemicals) helps. You can still feed them veggies and they'll go to town. I ordered all of my crickets from premiumcrickets/georgiacrickets and was able to keep them for a month or more using their grain feed and water crystals. I housed them in a 20gal tank with a screen top in the basement. No extra lights, just the heat in the winter. Lots of paper towel tubes for them to live in and wood chip substrate to keep the stink down and make it easier to clean up once or twice a week.

Interesting. I had no idea crickets shed. I'm going to get more feeders on Saturday, and I will ask about cricket grains and water crystals. Thanks!

okay so I just checked and the green cubes are called "total bites for feeders" and it says it has food, water, vitamins, amino acids. Says it's complete for feeders. Im beginning to wonder if it should be called total garbage. They dry out within a day or two, and I don't think I can moisten them back to hydration. My crickets are kept in the laundry room, on the first level of our two story house, and it doesn't get cold, especially now, in CA.

I'll have to see what they say at the reptile shop tomorrow when I get new feeders, although they are the ones who sold the stuff to me, so wish me luck. I think I'll ask what they feed their crickets and ask to have some of that.

Why are my crickets dying so fast?

I switched away from the flukers orange cube for the same reason. It dried out way too quickly. Easier to feed a grain base with some water crystals and then add veggies as I get them.

Make sure the humidity level is very low.......they like it very dry and warm with access to water. Grain food and water crystals have worked best for me. I feed them only greens that I use for my dragons....turnip, collards, mustard, kale etc... most veggies will add a lot of humidity to a cricket bin so I don't use them.

Thanks. Im wondering of the apple slices Im using are also causing humidity. I went to the reptile store yesterday and instead of getting 120 large crickets, I got 120 medium crickets. They said the crickets should do just fine with the green cubes since it has water in it, but that the large crickets only last about a week and a half due to age. I don't know if that's true, but we'll find out with the medium (younger) crickets.

We all have been there … you just bought a container of expensive crickets and half of them were dead or dying. Now your wondering why you paid for them, and why is it so difficult to keep them alive? Why are my crickets dying?

We discuss the three most common reasons crickets die and give you solutions so you don’t waste your money.

Why are my crickets dying so fast?
1) Short Life Span

At the heart of the problem is the crickets short or “fast and furious” life cycle. Crickets are commercially produced at high temperatures, which reduces their life cycle to around 6-7 weeks. This is not long when you consider they become adults in around 4 or 5 weeks.

This means that an adult cricket is nearing the end of its life cycle when you receive it, and may only have a week or two before dying. This is why it is much harder to keep adult crickets alive than small and medium sizes. Here are some tips to reduce deaths:

  • If you plan to keep large crickets for a week or two, you may be better off buying medium sized crickets which live longer. In most cases medium crickets will be large in a week or two anyway. In the adjoining photo the female cricket on the left is a medium cricket (no wings, small ovipositor or spike on end of body) and a large cricket is on the right (wings and pronounced ovipositor at the end of body).
  • If you plan to buy bulk quantities, split the order into small, medium and larges. In this way, you can progressively use each size as they mature without them dying.

2) Transport

Once a cricket leaves the breeding facility, it is common for them to be in transit or in the pet shop for a week or more. Given what we learned above, this means that an adult cricket may have as little as a few days or a week before it starts to die!! And that is assuming they were sent immediately after they reached adult size.

Crickets live alone in the wild so placing 35 or more adult crickets into a small container (much larger numbers for mediums and smalls) often results in cannibalism, unhygienic conditions or starvation. Here are some tips to reduce deaths:

  • Here at WildlifeHub we have been producing feeder insects commercially for over a decade, and place our crickets in breathable calico bags with egg cartons and large pieces of carrot for local customers. The bags are returned when they pick up the next order. If you have a lot of crickets you need to transport for extended periods, we recommend transferring them to calico bags.
  • Crickets that are bred at home will always live longer and be more nutritional as they have no transport and storage issues, and constant access to good food/water supplies. Crickets used to be one of the hardest species of insects to breed, however new methods now makes them one of the easiest.
    Visit the “How to Start Breeding Crickets” page for more details.

3) Husbandry

When you get your crickets home, they require good ventilation, lots of room to move about, moderate to high temperatures and constant access to food and water. Ventilation prevents toxic gases produced by fermenting foods and poo, from killing your crickets. Crickets will eat each other if they do not have sufficient cover to escape from each other, or enough food and water. Most cricket species are tropical and require moderate to high temperatures (within 20-35 degrees Celsius or 68-95 Fahrenheit) to stay healthy. Here are some tips to reduce deaths:

  • On the way home from the pet store, don’t leave them in a hot car or expose them to extreme temperatures.
  • Keep them at a moderate temperature (15-20 degrees Celsius or 59-68 Fahrenheit), to slow down their development.
  • Take them out of their transport container and place them into a large container with plenty of food, water, ventilation and egg cartons for protection. Our feeder insect books outline a number of techniques to feed crickets to your animals, and how to build a temporary container that; houses the crickets when they get home; filters them into different sizes (if necessary); removes poo easily; and dusts them with vitamin powder.
  • Provide a gut loading mixture (nutrient rich food) and a plentiful supply of water so that they maintain health and vitality.

If you need any further information on keeping or breeding feeder insects visit our Feeder Insect page or get our Free Cricket Breeding Training Course.